Monday, 8 Aug 1999
I want to dedicate this issue to POLITICS & FASHION.
short, ours is a world of Alternative Sexuality. As such, we, like various
alternatives before us, occasionally come under fire. It is and has been
our standing up to various scrutiny and fire which has over time not only
given the Fetish Scene strength, but genuine Credibility as well. It has
been said that the Fetish/BDSM Scene trails about 15 years behind the Gay
& Lesbian "Scene" as far as rights and issues of legality
go. In other words, look at how far the Gay & Lesbian Movement has come
forward in the last 15 years, and you will see where the Fetish/BDSM Scene
will be 15 years from now. If you subscribe to theories such as Terrence
McKenna's "Time Wave Zero" regarding the acceleration of cycles,
it will be significantly less than 15 years for us to make the same strides
forward as an Accepted Alternative Sexuality. But don't take my word for
it -- look at the evidence: In only the last 5 years, the American Psychological
Association has finally deemed consentual BDSM activity between two caring
people as non-pathological (i.e. they FINALLY removed Consentual BDSM Practices
from their list of Psychological Aberrations in the grand tome of the Psych
profession known as the DSM).
But even more so, and especially relevant to this issue of INIQUITY NEWS, is how something SOOO Respected, SOOO In The Public Eye as the Haute Couture Collections from Paris are beginning to absolutely burst with items that scream "Fetish!" For our aesthetic to gain a foothold in the highest of high "courts" of fashion, and to have this foothold so proudly defended by someone as clout-carrying as the Editor of VOGUE magazine, is effectively the same as saying, "Houston; This Eagle Is Landing" (sic; the famous words the Apollo 11 astronauts spoke as they landed on the moon for the first time). Ah yes. But it doesn't stop there. Have you ever wondered how much of a force you are as an Individual? Have you ever wondered if your feelings or actions make a Difference? Well I have some Ecstatically Good News For You:
Due to an ENORMOUS number of phone calls received in ONLY TWO DAYS after the last announcement I sent out, the Roxie Cinema in San Francisco, 3117 16th Street, has reinserted the film
PREACHING TO THE PERVERTED
Back Into Their Schedule, with
TWO MIDNIGHT SHOWINGS ON
August 20th and 21st!
You did it.
Every call every one of you made added up SO FAST, that, just as we all hoped, we turned the situation right around. The Director of the Film himself wrote to say, "Wow! You guys are simply amazing, yours must be the most disciplined (ahem) group of SM/fetish people in the world. I wish we had an Iniquity to lobby every major cinema town of the world. In case you are wondering, yes, it is appropriate to pat yourself on the back now. ;-) Thus, we can and do make a difference. So next time you wonder if signing a petition to keep the government out of someone's sex life, or defend the human rights of some unjustly prosecuted Pervs somewhere, or attend a party to raise funds to help save a dungeon or educate those who misunderstand what we are all about.........next time you wonder if you really make a difference, think back on this relatively easy change that you helped make happen. It is a small stepping stone, but it is also proof that we DO have a collective voice that gets heard. :-)
And now, on with the show...........
Table O' Contents:
To find out more about what INIQUITY is all about, visit the INIQUITY Website at: https://clubiniquity.com Info Hotline: 415-289-2167
At INIQUITY, we ALWAYS welcome contributions from Anywhere in The World. Got a cool Fetish or BDSM story to tell? A Fetish Film or Club you want to review? Opening a Club or throwing a public Fetish Event? We LOVE getting your NEWS, REVIEWS, LETTERS, UPDATES, etc. Send it in and we'll get it out there. Our rapidly growing readership is approximately 60% San Francisco Bay Area, 20% other parts of California, 10% Other States, and 10% Other Countries.....and that doesn't even include forwards and web-site drop-ins! :-)
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Last week we all had a chance to ascertain the answer to the perennial question of how much FETISHISM has worked it's way into Mainstream Fashion. Now before we run too far with this, we must admit that on the Grand Tree of Fashion, there is most certainly just as much stratification within the Mainstream Branch as there is on the tree overall (i.e. the Mainstream Branch vs. the Fetish Branch, etc). Paris gave us a glimpse into the serious Movers and Shakers of Haute Couture, and it is these artists who's ideas eventually trickle down into some of the styles of the contemporary, every-day fashion world. Of course it would be absurd to think that Versace and Mugler will influence every strata of fashion just as it would be absurd to think that Murray & Vern would. Nonetheless, the Paris Collections are the accoutrements of the VERY Rich, and those who wear these clothes often shake hands in many circles....know what I mean? It may not be too long from now when the latex dresses of Mugler are seen at some Governor's Ball, and when that happens the gods of Fetish will be smiling. ;-)
In my own opinion, the two absolute Highlights of the show were Mugler & Gaultier, with Versace & Galliano as very close seconds. Mugler absolutely stole the "1999 INIQUITY Fetish Influence Award" with his gorgeous Malachite Green latex gown. Literally printed with a malachite pattern (the announcer called it a "bubble print"), this was the only truly 100% latex entry into the entire program. However, the Fetish Universe won Major Points when the announcer, Andre Leon Talley of VOGUE, who's light comments had peppered the entire show, suddenly took a loud and staunchly adamant tone as he declared to the millions of viewers watching this beautiful Green Latex creation, "This Is Not A Joke! This Is Very Much Real Haute Couture!" One suspects from Mr. Talley's comment that he may just be a bigger fan of Fetish than he lets on. His singular comment stood as a grand riposte to such critics of yesteryear who once dared call Pamela Anderson's silver latex gown that she wore to some large affair, "amongst the worst dressed." Take THAT You Fiends! ;-)
Keep your eyes peeled for much sudden capitulation in the future from those who dare to criticize our Fetish aesthetic.....I ask you, would they dare go against the Editor of VOGUE? Heh heh heh..... Although in the world of other materials leather truly reigned as the most common Fetish Material, a surprisingly large number of designers have steered off into a new material that I think would count as Fetish, being an alternative to leather, namely CROCODILE. Dresses, spike-heel boots, bustiers, skirts, etc, all made their appearance constructed from the tanned and dyed skins of this predator. The Croc skin looked sometimes stunning, sometimes gaudy, but it always had that SHINY, beautiful texture. It is necessarily the case that everything seen in the Paris Collections are usually one-offs, and priced in the 5 or 6 digit range. Nonetheless, the Croc designs Looked Sexy! Here amongst those of us who don't have that kind of pocket change, I think many of you would agree that the makers of our significantly more affordable PVC should put their minds to the task of creating a Poly-Vinyl or Patent Leather that looks and feels just like Croc skin. Although I have seen a few pieces like this of so-so quality, it seems that no one has really explored this route as of yet. Gaultier made his Croc entry, as well as giving us the #2 Prize for the INIQUITY Awards, a floor length "biker style" (yes, that is how they actually described it) GORGEOUS leather gown, utterly form fitting, and even having a built-in option to either let out a mini-train or zip it closed into a hobble skirt! Yum! Unfortunately, for the man who has been erroneously given the title "the father of fetish fashion" (NOT!) by the Mainstream fashion press, there wasn't a whole lot else in Gaultier's collection to really shake my foundations. Feathers seemed to be enormously popular as well in a variety of collections, but that isn't new. I think I would nonetheless have to give the INIQUITY Award for the Designer Who Truly Understands The Contours Of The Female Form to........Versace. Again and again and again I have seen a regular stream of clothing from the Versace family that, even if made of bland materials, seems to truly appreciate how beautiful the curves of a female body can be. SOOO many other designers in the Mainstream try to hide curves, flatten curves, genericize curves, etc. But Versace, currently headed by Donatella, seems to reign as the perennial rulers of truly understanding, accenting and catering to these curves, in my honest opinion. The other designers are excellent, no doubt, but the Versace family seems.....well, it's the difference between seeing the rose versus actually catching the scent. :-)
After the terrible news of Gianni's death last year, I feared that this understanding which he carried throughout his designs would be lost as the fortune and business was taken over by Donatella. I happy to say that as far as I have seen, Donatella's designs would make Gianni proud. All of them sexy, and some which would even make it through the INIQUITY Dress Code! Er, well, I'll let You decide........how about a skin tight YELLOW body suit, looking like some cross between spandex and silk ("Arcane, have you gone crazy?" you ask). Well check this out -- it isn't shiny silk, it's Gold. Yes, the metal. Yes, the Very Expensive Metal. How they got it to become form fitting, and / or how they got it to flex I still do not quite understand -- is it Gold Thread? Is it some super secret process that laminates an ultra-fine layer of Gold onto a spandex-like fabric? I cannot tell. This outfit was studded with pearls, and although costing a King's ransom no doubt, would probably make it through the doors of INIQUITY not because of it's value, but because it adheres to the Metal rule, albeit a metal not to commonly seen in the construction of Fetish Attire. ;-)
Last but not least, the Most Overall Fun Award would probably go to Galliano, who's styles seemed to blend a little bit of Cyberpunk with a little bit of Road-Warrior, and Talley even said that Galliano was inspired by THE MATRIX! Pretty over-the-top at times, Galliano's styles were viciously sexy, with long leather skirts, spike boots and tops that would fit right in for a typical day's work of La Femme Nikita. ;-)
Overall, the biggest question I had going into the show was how well Fetish was going to be represented. Materials-wise we saw a wonderful showing. Of true Fetish Fashion styles and designs, it was only a token appearance, but with the voice of the Editor of VOGUE giving firm backing to these elements, I have no doubt they will be taken more seriously, and that we shall see more of our aesthetic next year. :-)
For a second opinion, here's a review sent in by an INIQUITY Reader: (thanks to Sierra)
" Paris Fashion Collections- Review
Last week ABC treated us to video from the Paris Fall 1999 Haute Couture collections. This was the second year for this program and I hope they continue the tradition. I especially enjoyed Andre Leon Talley's commentary and interviews. So how does one get to be an "editor-at-large" for Vogue? If there was any disappointment it was that not all of each collection was shown. Many of the major fashion designers continue to feature very fetish oriented clothes, and haute couture is an area where fantasy and fashion come together. The details and workmanship of these collections is stunning. The make-up and models are exquisite. The haute couture process brings out many one-of-a-kind designs that allow us to imagine a world where clothing goes beyond costuming into areas of sexual passion and desire. For some of us the connection between clothing and sexuality runs very deep, so it's great to see that others feel that way too. So on to the collections. Donatella Versace's show was sexy as always although not especially heavy on the fetish elements this year. Her presence is incredibly sexy and it seems natural that her clothing designs would be too. It was great to see Tom Ford of Gucci there at her show. Jean Paul Gaultier has consistently shown fetish elements in his collections. This year crocodile leather continued that tradition, and his dress of feathers was spectacular. The "millenium dress" in leather with a very tight waist cincher and shoulder length gloves might even pass the Iniquity dress code. (Ed. -- Yep!)
Givenchy's show by Alexander McQueen had some great fetish details. A spiked leather collar and breastplate got things started, followed by striped leather thigh-high-boots with 5" heels and spurs. Need I say more? Valentino's collection featured some sexy dresses, but few fetish elements. In previous years Valentino has treated us to some great boots, especially in the fall of 1997. John Galliano held this year's Christian Dior show at Versailles. Galliano seems to really understand the allure of fantasy fashions. This year we saw commandos, hunting outfits of full length leather with stuffed animals in the hats, lace-up knee boots with 5" heels, Matrix inspired make-up and hair, and a long runway of water pads. Galliano's 1998 fall couture show for Dior was my favorite fashion show ever. The show pulled into a Paris train station on a steam locomotive. The theme of Pocahontas comes to England featured wonderful fantasy outfits with corsets, thigh-high boots with 5" heels, lots of leather and great fabrics. Galliano gives us fantasy worlds of incredible beauty. Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel and Christian LaCroix both showed lots of sexy dresses and high heels, but not many overtly fetish elements. No review of Paris fetish fashion would be complete without Thierry Mugler. Mugler's sense of sexuality and fashion puts him in a class by himself. His shows have featured corsets, leather, rubber, high heels, and extreme make-up for years. This year was no exception. A full length green rubber dress was followed by beautiful full length dresses on dramatic models. Mugler's women are pure glamour. His couture bride's dress featured an incredibly small corseted waist on a model whose walk was delicious.
This fall is shaping up to be a good one for a return to higher heels, lots of boots, and lots of sexy clothes. Elle, Vogue, Cosmopolitan, Bazaar, and W all showed indications last month that the coverage of this fall's fashions will be good. Some fetish fashion elements never really go out of style, it just seems that the fashion press chooses to focus on certain trends each year. In addition to the U.S. editions, the European editions of the major fashion magazines often feature very sexy, sometimes fetish oriented photo spreads."
BOUND: If you haven't been to BOUND yet and you live in the San Francisco Bay Area, you have no idea what you're missing. In less than a year BOUND has leapt to the Front Runner as San Francisco's PREMIER MONTHLY FETISH CLUB. Although their dress code is not as strict as INIQUITY's, the guests tend to bring a very respectable Fetish element, with about 80% + Fetish Attire, and 15-20% Gothic Attire. I have personally been there on nights when it was over 90% Fetish! On Top Of This, BOUND's inimitable Proprietrix, Athena, gives you more than your money's worth with a Food Spread (free!), a fully functional bar, half a dozen quality play areas for the S&M crowd in a separated, safely lit area (same sound zone as the main dance floor), and several DJ's to keep the Dance Floor alive all night long! Their involved Registration process grants them Private Party status, so the party always goes until at least 3 a.m.!
Next BOUND is August 14th at the usual location,
GHIA's on 3rd Street at 23rd in San Francisco.
This one's theme will be a particularly fun one, namely Berlin 1930. For those of you who may not know, 1930 was BEFORE the Nazi Party, so no, this is NOT a Nazi-Fest. Berlin in 1930 was the hey-day of the CABARET (q.v. the movie of the same name), and Berlin Cabaret's were some of the most famous, most extravagant, and most decadent.... ;-)
From the proprietrix:
"SUGGESTED THEME ATTIRE :
Decadent vintage fetish, vintage corsets & lingerie, Flapper, Formal tails and top hat, feathers & Fur, Vintage uniforms.
NO Street cloths, T-Shirts or jeans
Note: Black jeans may be worn if in conjunction with one or more of the above Goth or fetish elements"
More details should follow next week. For quicker info, e-mail BOUND@sirius.com
August 6th, 7th and 8th.
8pm Friday until Sunday 12 Midnight!!!
Doors: 8pm-midnight Friday August 6th
noon - midnight August 7th
noon - midnight August 8th
Suggested donation: $20-$50 sliding scale; no one turned away for lack of funds!!!!
barbecue - raffle - performers - demonstrations - cool people - cool stuff
Demonstration topics include: Mummification, Flogging, Caning, Eroticizing Pain, Single Tail Whips, Fisting and more.... For a FULL Schedule of Demonstrations and Performances, as well as a list of Prize Vendors and More, visit the Castlebar WebSite at: http://www.castlebar.com/event.htm OR call Zoe at: 415-642-3822
FETISH FLEA MARKET this Sunday, August 8th!
The tri-annual Fetish Flea Market thrown by Thorn comes ones again to # 50 Oak Street in San Francisco this coming Sunday, August 8th. If you have never been, it is certainly the place to go if you are shopping for a Fetish/BDSM Toy Bargain. In years past it has varied between more Used stuff and more New stuff, but inevitably there are deals to be found. # 50 Oak Street is located near Van Ness and Market. The Flea Market goes from 2pm to 5pm, and admission is $5 per person. Afterwards, as usual, the FANDANGO crew will be hosting a BDSM Play Party at a location to be disclosed when you buy your ticket. Tickets are only available at the booth inside the Flea Market. Not certain of the price, but I think it's around $10 per person.
Continuing with our theme of Political Success in The Fetish Arena, here is another Ground-Breaking Piece of News which shows Fetishism is getting closer to the realm of true Acceptance. One questions how and even why people who seem to be on the same side of the coin as you can place obstacles in your path when you all seem to be after the same goal. Still, it happens -- from misunderstanding, from factionalization, from stereotyping, even from projecting supposedly taboo parts of oneself. That is why it is ESPECIALLY GOOD TO HEAR when one of these Barriers between people fighting almost the same fight Finally Comes Down. :-)
If you've been reading INIQUITY NEWS for a few issues, you've had the play-by-play. Now here's the victory announcement: (thanks to jiade)
"NOW purges S/M wording"
July 30, 1999
by Rhonda Smith
Members of an "S/M Policy Reform Project" said they view the National Organization for Women's decision in early July to erase language about sadomasochism from its Lesbian rights policy as a victory. "We are pleased by the encouragement of fellow NOW members who deplore the persecution and attacks against S/M practitioners simply because of our form of sexual expression," said Susan Wright, coordinator of the S/M Policy Reform Project, an ad hoc group of NOW members. NOW's newly approved "Delineation of Lesbian Rights" policy states that the organization embraces the "rich diversity of issues and experiences that impact women's lives." It also states that "NOW reaffirms its commitment to a lesbian rights agenda that has a grassroots strategy to fight bigotry and discrimination based on real or perceived sexual orientation." The 1999 Lesbian Rights policy replaces the 1980 policy, which previously identified sadomasochism as an issue of "exploitation or violence, not affectional/sexual preference/orientation." Times, they are a changin'. Welcome to a more open minded Millennium. :-)
Bio-Mech: Fetish Night in Sacramento
(thanks to Alexi)
"It was a HUGE success, 400 people, 95% dressed, great Dj's and the dungeon was awesome! The dungeon NEVER slowed down, there was a waiting list for equipment. When the professional pictures come back I'll send you a few to give you an idea. We had people from all over California, some even as far as Long Beach! Ran into a few Iniquity as well! Thanks again, there will be another next month." More info: 24hr info line 916-725-9321 or http://www.chalkhead.com/biomech
Scotland: Trans-Mission in Edinburgh
(thanks to JV)
"Trans-Mission Fetish Nights Report 02 Aug 99
The Mission Team broke new ground in fetish nights in Scotland on Saturday 31 July with the launch of 'Trans-Mission.' Building on the pioneering work of Permission as well as the newly reformed Glasgow Hellfire Club (for whom we have the greatest admiration and respect,) the Mission team have combined their organizational and musical strengths with the support of the real, alternative, Edinburgh fetish community. With some networking help from the right people (select members of the Edinburgh body modification, TV, transgendered, gay MC, bisexual, lesbian and bdsm communities) plus a lot of elbow grease (ahem) the team has brought together an even more alternative Saturday night club! This transformed Mission Saturday night becomes 'Trans-Mission.' A fetish night with a strict fetish dress code and a three room dungeon separated from the main hall dance area! The Dungeon is permanently equipped with a futuristic dentists restraint chair for even the most masochistic patrons! Also fitted are wall racks, manger bolts and fixtures in the ceiling beams for full suspension harnesses and we hope to develop the inventory further. Equipment on the first night also included a St Andrews cross, some rather interesting Iron Masks and associated fetish paraphernalia. We will waive the entry fee to anyone who brings a large piece of kit for club use if they inform us in advance. Bus organizers from out of town will also go on the guest list, max 2. We may also introduce a concessionary rate for members of other bona fide clubs with i.d. In all events, contact us in advance, if you are interested in these offers.. Trusting to the guidelines we set up for players and the eagle eyes of our wonderful and experienced three guest Mistresses and one Master (who shall all remain anonymous,) we have to say that things were in 'full swing' by about 1.30am and everyone's endorphins etc., suitably stimulated by chucking out time! We really want to thank absolutely everyone who networked for us and made the night such a huge success with a hundred plus of the right folk supporting us. We really want to get something new started as a bona fide dungeon club where the clubbing fetish community can feel safe from exploitation and have their needs catered for. The music policy so far combines Glam-rock and Goth and Industrial with occasional guest spots from the rest of the Mission team. The overall atmosphere combines music, lighting, costumes, some special stage effects and the added frisson of the dungeon to wet the appetites of the most jaded fetish clubbers outside of London.. The club will be back on 25th September after a break for the Edinburgh Festival after which we shall consider whether to go monthly. Though generally satisfied, we will be tightening up on the dress code next time. So invest in some rubber, leather or pvc now if you want to visit us on 25th September ... More info: http://members.xoom.com/dust_net
(thanks to Tim W.)
"The SKIN TWO Rubber Ball
For the past seven years, the SKIN TWO Rubber Ball has been the world's most famous fetish event. Visitors from around the world gather in London for a four-day programme of fetish events, finishing off with the big one - the SKIN TWO Rubber Ball itself, on Monday night. Covered by media from many countries, the Rubber Ball has appeared on television in the UK, USA, Germany and Japan. The event was recently the subject of a half-hour documentary. So far, thanks to your help, we have raised ?55,000 for charities. This year, we are again supporting Crusaid, which does great work supporting people with AIDS and HIV. The SKIN TWO Rubber Ball is a glittering event with the emphasis on fun - over three thousand people (our record is 3,726!) dressed in their wildest fantasy outfits. There are men dressed as women, women dressed as men, space creatures, dominatrixes, fire-breathing creatures on stilts, you name it. Celebrity guests have included Jean-Paul Gaultier, Mick Jagger and many more. The one thing you won't see is anything remotely ordinary. No-one is admitted in street clothing. You should see the photos! In fact, you can see the pictures from last year's Rubber Ball right now. Check out our photo report to get an idea of what to expect this year. We are moving to a new venue this year and planning lots of other improvements, too. We'll be letting you know more details as the event gets nearer. Meantime, here is a rundown on what's happening:
Friday October 29th
Meet all our friends from around the world, at
Little Havana, Leicester Place, WC2, from 6 to 9pm Tickets $10
(includes a cocktail when you arrive)
Later that night, a wild fetish party run by regulars from
London's Perv scene Tickets: $15
Saturday October 30th
A major event by TG, London's coolest fetish dance club, at MASS, a
converted church, St Mathews Hill, Brixton, SW2,
from 10pm to 6am. Tickets: $15
Sunday October 31st
From 10am to 6pm, at a seriously cool venue next to
Buckingham Palace!Tickets: $3. Fetish Dress Optional.
TWO Dinner Party
A buffet dinner from 7.30pm, at Little Havana, Leicester Place, WC2
Tickets $25. Fetish Dress Preferred (but not essential)
Monday November 1st
SKIN TWO Rubber Ball
The world's number one fetish event, at the coolest new venue in Europe.
Tickets ?35 in advance. Strict Fetish Dress Code
Tickets for all events will be on sale from July 1st
Ticket credit card sales line: 020 7627 3332
From overseas: +44 20 7627 3332
From the USA: 011 44 20 7627 3332
E-mail ticket sales: email@example.com
No cameras without permit at any event except the Expo
Information is available in the UK only on the
SKIN TWO information line: 0906 8299 714
(calls cost 60 cents per min)
From overseas, call: +44 20 8286 8061
From the USA: 011 44 20 8286 8061
Or write to: firstname.lastname@example.org
The SKIN TWO Showroom is round the corner from Vauxhall tube station at - Unit N306 Westminster Business Square, Durham St, London SE11 5JH
(Tel 020 7840 0146, or just dial 07000 SKIN TWO)
Over Rubber Ball weekend, the showroom will be open Friday October 29th and Saturday 30th, as usual. Then we will be at the SKIN TWO Expo on the Sunday. For last-minute shopping before the Ball, we will be open Monday 1st November. On Tuesday 2nd November, we will be closed - for obvious reasons! Mail order catalogue pack $3. For Prospective Vendors at the SKIN TWO Expo on October 31st: The venue is in a very central location with easy access and full facilities, including bar etc. The following stall options are available:
6 x 3 ft (2 x 1 metre) table: ?100 ($160)
4 x 3 ft (1.3 x 1 metre) table: ?50 ($80)
Space is filling up - book now! We welcome major credit cards - also cheques in UK pounds or US dollars (?1 = $1.6). Cheques should be made out to SKIN TWO.
tel: +44 (0)171 498 5533
fax: +44 (0)171 498 5565
Click here to go to Part II of Iniquity Newsletter #15
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